Green Lizard

Did you know?
In 1991, scientists divided the former one species of green lizards into two, a Western Green Lizard (Lacerta bilineata) and an Eastern Green Lizad (Lacerta viridis). There are however only very slight morphological differences and it could well bet hat further studies might show that they indeed are only one species and revert their nomenclature again to the previous situation. As all lizards (and geckos) also the green lizard can actively lose its tail in dangerous situations, i.e. when threatened by a predator like a marten, a weasel a bird of prey or a house cat. This is called “autotomy”. Beginning with the sixth, each tail-vertebra of the green lizard has a pre-prepared site of fracture. By a strong and sudden contraction of the circular tail musculature it can separate itself from a bigger or a smaller portion of the tail as need arises. Due to the still functioning autonomous nervous system of the tail fragment the detached body part does still move vigurously up to twenty minutes, thus catching the attention of the persecutor and allow the now tailless lizard to get away. Thus by sacrificing a non vital body part, in most cases the lizard succeeds in saving its life. After a while the lizard grows a new tail, however this substitute is not supported by another vertebral column but by a cartilaginous and unbreakable rod.

Photo Copyright by
Benchaum

Why do zoos keep this animal

The green lizard is one of the largest and most attractive European lizards. It is kept almost exclusively by European zoos, who keep it for educational reasons, as an example of the neative herpetofauna, and as an ambassador for the conservation of European reptiles, most of which are at least regionally threatened.

How this animal should be kept

The green lizard is protected by the Berne Convention and it is therefore forbidden to catch them or to keep animals taken from the wild. Therefore only captive-bred specimens may be kept at all. In such cases it is best to keep a single pair of lizards together or – provided the terrarium is vers spacious (see below) - a male with a few females. Keeping two males together is asking for trouble, but also females tend to be aggressive against other females. For bottom substrate it is better not to use sand because this may cause eye problems. Reptile bark is better. A warm area where the temperature should be between 26-32 degrees Celsius and a cooler area where it should be between 22-24 degrees should be provided. Humidity shouldn`t be over 40-50 %. Branches and plants are a useful addition for climbing. Some stable rocks need to be present so the lizards can wear down their nails Cracks and spaces between the rocks are welcome as hiding places as well as bark and small bushes. For lighting and, at the same time, heating 25 W spotlights are adequate in a smaller terrarium. They will increase the temperature locally while the rest of the terrarium will remain cooler. Cooling down at night is favourable to the health of the lezards. At least 8-10 hours of light should be provided in summer, while in spring and fall a few hours per day is sufficient. A true hibernation of one to four months at temperatures of 2-4ºC in humid peat covered with a layer of beech leaves e.g. advisable. Without it, reproduction in the following spring may not be successful. It is essential that for hibernation the animals have emptied their stomach and intestines because otherwise the contents decompose in an uncontrolled manner, which will inevitably result in death. Therefore they must fast a few days before their hibernation with the lights still on.
Most European lizards are however also easily kept in outdoor terraria. In this case during the summer there must not only be sun but also sufficient shade, and in winter the animals must be able to retreat into burrows that are deep enough for them to survive the frost. Therefore a high ground water level in the garden can be lethal during this period. The outdoor terrarium should be protected against unwanted visitors from above (birds, cats) and below (moles, rats, mice).
Green lizards can be fed with crickets, mealworms and buffalo worms, which have been fed properly themselves, with healthy food and lots of calcium. In addition the insects should be dusted with a mixture of minerals before they are served to the lizards. Adding water soluble ('aquosum') vitamin A and D3 to the drinking water is also a must (minimum of 20.000 I.E. vitamin A and 20.000 I.E. The water should be changed daily.