Chacoan Horned Frog

Did you know?
In the wild Chacoan horned frogs experience contrasting wet and dry seasons. The have an ability to estivate for months at a time when exposed to abnormally dry and cool conditions. Therefore some keepers choose to put adult horned frogs also through a period of estivation where temperatures and humidity are reduced and feeding is stopped altogether. During this period, horned frogs are dormant and rely on stored fat deposits and a slowed metabolism in order to survive. They then develop a thick layer of protective skin to trap moisture and aid in respiration. When estivation is complete, the frog uses its front and hind legs to help shed the protective layer. In many cases, it also uses its jaws to help pull the skin over its back, often eating the skin in the process. This estivation period may even be necessary in order to start reproduction afterwards. This amphibian is an ambush predator and remains motionless and hidden most of the time until potential food comes nearby, at which time it lunges from its small hole in the ground and eats or attempts to eat whatever it is that’s in front of it. It is capable of leaping for several body lengths in order to capture prey. In the wild a large portion of their diet consists even of other frogs. Although these frogs can swallow animals almost half their size, they sometimes attempt to eat things larger than they are. A row of sharp teeth in their upper jaw makes it nearly impossible for them to release prey after taking it in their mouth, in some cases leading to death by choking. Because they have such a characteristically large mouth and thus resemble the video game character Pac-Man, they are also called Pacman Frogs.

Photo Copyright by
Franco Andreone

How this animal should be kept

The Chacoan horned frog is not very active and spends most of its time sitting in one spot waiting for food. Since they show cannibalistic tendencies they should be preferably housed alone. For a small adult horned frog therefore a terrarium that measures 50 cm by 25 cm by 30 cm is suitable, although more room is better. A screen cover is recommended to prevent things from falling in the cage, and the actually good climber from attempting to escape. Temperature should be between 24 °C and 28 °C. They are not as sensitive to humidity levels as many other commonly kept amphibians.

Horned frogs are ambush predators that spend much of their time buried waiting for prey. Therefore it's best to provide a substrate that is easy for them to burrow in. Coconut husk fiber or other safe soil are good options. Cypress mulch, sphagnum moss, and leaf litter are other suitable solutions, although it’s recommended that frogs kept on these substrates be fed from tweezers or tongs to prevent them from swallowing a piece of bark or moss that could cause problems. Soil generally holds moisture well, allows horned frogs to dig, and looks natural. Decor in the cage can consist of fake plants, pieces of curved cork bark, and driftwood. Hiding spots aren’t always needed if there is a deep substrate in which the frog can burrow. Live plants rarely last long in a cage with a horned frog because they generally get uprooted when the frog searches for a new place to sit and wait for food. They are large, powerful amphibians and can easily turn over a potted plant.

A large shallow water bowl should be available and the water should be changed frequently. The water should be not deeper than the frog itself. Adults have large mouths and can be fed earthworms, adult locusts, cockroaches, giant mealworm, silkworms, slugs and snails. They can be fed as infrequently as once every week or every other week in large quantities. Vertebrates such as pre-killed rodents and feeder fish can be fed occasionally.